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Sony PSP 3000 Disassembly

Disclaimer:

Please note that doing this will void the warranty of your PSP system. You should be pretty good at working with small, delicate parts and have steady hands. DO NOT use excessive force.  Attempt at your own risk!  I will not be held responsible in any way, shape, or form for anything that happens to your PSP while you attempt to change the housing with this guide.

This is not for everyone. Some will find it extremely easy while others may find it impossible and there are people all in between. So again, please proceed AT YOUR OWN RISK! Don't be shy to ask for assistance.

Now that that's out of the way, this guide will walk you through in the disassembly of your PSP.  If you have steady hands and are good at working with small parts, this will be a fun and enjoyable project.  It should take you between 30 minutes to 3 hours to complete this guide.  The important thing here is to have fun and enjoy the new housing!  DO NOT RUSH IT!  Always take your time!  I suggest you read through this guide before you begin and if at any point you feel you are not comfortable to proceed, STOP and seek a professional.

IMPORTANT POINTS TO FOLLOW:

It is a lot easier if you pre-thread the screw holes in the new housing before putting everything back.

Try to use the original parts and screws as much as possible and pre-thread each hole before the actual install. Remember, when pre-threading, the screws do not have to go all the way in. Turn them until they are about 3/4 of the way in and you're fine.

If your screwdriver is slipping when trying to remove the screws, it means your
screws may have "bonded" with the plastic. This usually happens with older systems which the plastic has stretch and shrink with varying temperatures. If this is happening, try tapping on the screwdriver lightly to loosen it. If that still doesn't work, some customers have used a drop of olive oil to loosen the screws.

Although a #00 Phillips screwdriver is provided with our kits, it may be best if you use your own or purchase a professional screwdriver from us.

Follow the instructions in Grey to disassemble.

Follow the instructions in GREEN for reassembly.

Things you must have:

1 x pointy tweezers

1 x #00 Phillips screwdriver (provided)

1 x Something flat and thin like a small flat head screwdriver.

Things that’ll make your work a lot easier:

1 x needle nose pliers

A clean, wide, brightly lid area to work

Grounding yourself before you begin:
Just touch the back of your computer case where there are metal parts, the power supply is best. This is connected to the ground terminal of your wall outlet. This should release any static electricity in your body.

Let's get started:



Remove all the screws in the red circles. The lower left one may be under the sticker (it is missing here). The 3 in the middle are on the side trim.

I said I wouldn't remind you but it is really helpful if you pre-thread the 4 corner holes on the face plate. It will make the final step 1000% easier. So do that now and if there are any protective films on the inside of the face plate, remove it now. Try not to move too much so you don't kick up dust.  Wipe them away if you see dust on it.

Finally, remove all the new buttons and volume bar from the packaging and put it inside the face plate. Again, I like to use the original parts so I would transfer the original silicone pad from the D-Pad if you have it.

Double check and make sure the LCD and the inside of the face plate is dust free and put the 2 together. I find it easier if you keep the faceplate almost 90 degrees upright, just enough so the volume bars don't fall out, and then put the back piece on. If everything is OK, screw it down.

Note that the 2 upper corner screws may not need to be fully tighten as it may interfere with the L and R button operation. If you feel the buttons are too tight, just loosen it a bit and try again.

Before the 3 screws on the trim piece are installed, I would suggest you test the system again and make sure the LCD is dust free. You may need to remove the cover a few times to clean out dust.

Finally if you want, put the small sticker back in if you want and remove the protective from the front of the glass (if any). And you're done! 




Flip the PSP over and carefully remove the faceplate.  Now, there's a clip on the right of the volume bar. Carefully use your flat head screwdriver and lift up and flip the bar towards you. (The bar in the picture is from a PSP 2000 but yours is virtually the same. Then carefully flip the LCD over as well.

At this point, you can actually check if everything works before closing up. Put the battery in and try powering up. Make sure all the buttons and D-Pad works, especially the volume bar. Now clean the screen very well with a lint free towel or similar.

 




On the top, remove the LCD Bracket, watch carefully how it is installed.  CAREFULLY flip the 3 black tabs up to release the ribbon cables.  Note the very small one on the left flips up towards you while the other 2 flips away from you. BE VERY CAREFUL on the small one of the left.  After the cables are released, remove the LCD and then the volume bar.

I'm missing the speaker in my test system (blue circle) but you can easily remove it by moving the little plastic arm to the left and lift out the speaker.

Install the LCD bracket. All the small tabs points down. Now carefully flip the LCD over, and then the volume bar and lock the volume bar down.

Snap the speaker back in place (blue circle).

 


Next, release the ribbon cable on the right, then remove the screws in the red circles and remove the accompanying parts in this order: L and R buttons, Power button bar,  Power Adapter socket (with plug to the system board), D-Pad Bracket, and finally, the Analog Stick (it is attached to a very small ribbon connector under the D-Pad bracket (left blue circle) so be careful and release the cable and remove the stick).

First install the volume bar. Again, make sure the ribbon cable is installed properly before locking it down. Then do the LCD. It is easier to do the small cable first before doing the large one. Just don't pull on the LCD aftre you lock down the small cable.


Now, from upper right to lower left red circles, release the wifi antenna connector (pull up), release the UMD Drive cable, release the UMD motor cable, and finally remove the screw and that section of the trim.  You can also remove the button contact pads too (Blue Circle). There's some sticky stuff under the pad so be careful. Just slowly peel it away. Also, under the L button pad is some sticky stuff too. Just peel it off the housing, but again, slowly and carefully.  Now, remove the system board by lifting it from the bottom CAREFULLY. Be sure all the ribbon cables are released and out of the way.

Ok, working backwards, install the lower left trim piece and screw it down. Did you remember to pre-thread the hole?  This will be the last reminder, I promise! : )

Lock down the 2 UMD ribbon cables making sure they are inserted all the way into the socket. Also, snap down the wifi antenna cable.

Install the Analog Stick. Be sure to connect the ribbon cable!

Install the D-Pad bracket and stick the L button pad onto the housing.

Install the button contact pad (blue circle) and lock down the ribbon cable.

Install the Power Adapter socket.

Install the Power button board and insert the small ribbon cable and lock it down. 

Install the L and R buttons and lock it down with the retainer.  Look in the picture above this one to see where everything goes if you can't figure it out.


Next, remove the screw in left red circle and remove the metal plate. Then remove the UMD door spring retainer and then the UMD door spring by sliding it to the left (right red circles).  REMEMBER the 2 cables (blue circles) on which hole it comes through the housing.

Did you make sure the UMD ribbon cables passed through the proper holes? I hope so! Now, install the system board by inserting the USB port (at the top) in first, then just rest it down on the housing.

 


Here's with the parts removed. Nothing much to see here. Almost done on removal.

Install the metal plate and screw it down. Pre-thread reminder! Did you pre-thread the hole? It will make your work a lot easier!

Now the spring. Here's where the needle nose pliers comes in handy. Stick the short end into the lower hole, and slide the long arm into the hole on the UMD door's hinge arm. It may take several tries. Install the small spring retainer.

 


Now, remove the H bar inside the UMD compartment. Use your tweezers to remove the 2 small foam stoppers. Release the top hinges by slightly bending them outwards. Don't worry if it deforms, you can bend them back. Then slide the lower hinges out from the UMD Door. Make note on how it is installed!

To remove the UMD door, refer to our PSP 2000 guide here. It is about 3/5 down the guide where I attempt to remove the door with my hands.

Now, remove the 4 screws holding the UMD drive down and CAREFULLY lift the UMD drive out, making sure not to snag the ribbon cables underneath.

Now, remove the sticker and remove the wifi antenna. It is, again, stuck on with sticky stuff.

Put the original sticker back if you wish and install the door first. Then install the "H" bar. If you have trouble with it, consult the PSP 2000 guide here again at the very bottom of the page. Remember to install the 2 foam pieces as well after the "H" bar is properly installed.

 


That's it! You're half done! Now follow the green text and work your way UP the guide to reassemble the PSP into the new housing.

Some notes before we begin the install:

It will be MUCH easier to pre-thread the screw holes before the actual install. You don't have to do the whole housing first. Just do them as you go. For example, use one of the UMD drive screws and screw it into each of the 4 holes first before installing the UMD drive.

Also, like I said in the beginning, I like to use as much original parts as possible so you can do that as well if you want.

Some parts may not fit EXACTLY as the original and it's perfectly fine. Some may need light pressure and some may need small adjustments. If you see any spurs, file/cut them down before installing. Compare the housing to the original if you're not sure.

Ok, now we begin. You may need to slightly disassemble the new housing first so do that now. After you finish, install the antenna and install the UMD drive. Be sure to thread the 2 ribbon cables though the holes in the blue circle.