Sony PSP 2000 Disassembly
This guide will walk you through in the disassembly of your PSP 2000 series. I did try my best to make everything as clear as possible and have ran it though myself to make sure I didn’t miss any steps. If you have steady hands and are good at working with small parts, this will be a fun and enjoyable project. It should take you between 30 minutes to 3 hours to complete this guide. The important thing here is to have fun and enjoy the new housing! DO NOT RUSH IT! Always take your time! I suggest you read through this guide before you begin and if at any point you feel you are not able to proceed, seek a professional.
Before we begin, a little disclaimer:
Please note that doing this will void the warranty of your PSP system. You should be pretty good at working with small, delicate parts and have steady hands. DO NOT use excessive force. Attempt at your own risk! I will not be held responsible in any way, shape, or form for anything that happens to your PSP while you attempt to change the housing with this guide.
IMPORTANT POINTS TO FOLLOW:
● It is a lot easier if you pre-thread the screw holes in the new housing before putting everything back.
● Try to use the original parts and screws as much as possible and pre-thread each hole before the actual install. Remember, when pre-threading, the screws do not have to go all the way in. Turn them until they are about 3/4 of the way in and you're fine.
● If your screwdriver is slipping when trying to remove the screws, it means your
screws may have "bonded" with the plastic. This usually happens with older systems which the plastic has stretch and shrink with varying temperatures. If this is happening, try tapping on the screwdriver lightly to loosen it. If that still doesn't work, some customers have used a drop of olive oil to loosen the screws.
● Although a #00 Phillips screwdriver is provided with our kits, it may be best if you use your own if you have one. Some systems may require a T2 Torx as well. If you don't have one, you can buy one here.
● Follow the instructions in Blue to disassemble.
● Follow the instructions in GREEN for reassembly.
Things you must have:
1 x pointy tweezers
1 x #00 Phillips screwdriver (provided)
1 x Something flat and thin like a small flat head screwdriver or a x-acto knife
(Optional depending on your PSP screws) 1 x T2 Torx Screwdriver
Things that’ll make your work a lot easier:
1 x needle nose pliers
A clean, wide, brightly lid area to work
Grounding yourself before you begin:
Just touch the back of your computer case where there are metal parts, the power supply is best. This is connected to the ground terminal of your wall outlet. This should release any static electricity in your body.
Let's get started:
Start on the back side. Remove battery, UMD disc, and memory if present. Remove all 7 screws circled in red. In the battery compartment, remove the sticker. Try your best not to damage it so you can reuse it.
Put the face plate back on and screw them all down. Make note that the 2 top screws (next to the USB port) are smaller then the rest.
Now it's time to put the H metal arm back in. Go back to the bottom of this guide for this very important step!
Flip the PSP over and remove the faceplate. Remove the analog joystick cap (just pull it out).
Note the blue circles. very gently release on clip on the right to loosen the button bar. Once release, the left side will release. Flip the button bar over. DO NOT PULL IT OUT!
Note the red circles with tabs holding the LCD. Gently push the LCD to the left to release it from the right clip. The left side should slide out once loose. Flip the LCD over as well.
Lock in the LCD from the left, then right side. Then lock in the button bar. Put the analog cap back as well. Now it is a good time to test your system before closing it up. Don't flip the PSP over but lift it up and place the battery in then test it out.
To release the ribbon cables circled in red, flip the small black tabs up VERY GENTLY AND CAREFULLY. The LCD tab may be a little hard to flip so please be careful.
Note the metal bar's position circled in Blue. You can lift it out from the PSP.
Remove the CPU shield and speaker seal.
Install the long metal LCD guide (blue circle above). Then install button bar cable first. Remember to lock the cable down. While the bar is face down, install the LCD by inserting the small cable first, then the large one. Be sure the cable is all the way in before locking it down.
Remove the screws in red circle to release the clips and remove the clips and L and R buttons.
Put the L and R buttons in then lock it back own. Place the CPU shield back in ligning up all the small "legs" with the gold plates on the motherboard. I added a very small piece of tape on the left side to hold it down. You can place the speaker seal back as well.
Remove the screw in red circle to release the left speaker and control pad unit. The L button contacts is stuck on the housing with glue. Use your flat head screwdriver and CAREFULLY insert it between the housing and the pad to release it from the housing. Once release, you can remove the control pad unit.
You can change to the new cover now if you like. Simply remove the old one and slide in the new one. Just look at the hooks. You'll figure it out. It's pretty simple.
Now, pull out the memory slot cover as far out as possible and place the control pad unit back in then screw it down. Stick the L pad in place, again, making sure it's flush on the top.
Remove the 2 screws circled on red to release the power port and power button board. Carefully lift up the tab circled on blue to release the ribbon cable then remove the board. Unlike the other sockets, the tab is on the opposite side of the cable. To remove the power port, push the right hook to release it and carefully lift it out. Then remove the connector circled green. Use a flat head to gently pry it out. Do not pull too hard on the cables.
Install the power switch board first making sure the switch is aligned with the slider. Screw it down. Then snap the power port back in and run the cable like you see in the picture above and plug in the connector. Screw down the power port. Also put the power button cable back (blue circle above). Remember to lock it down.
Next, release the clips in red to release the cables. Move the little plastic to the left on green to release the speaker. The R button pad is stuck on the housing the same as the L so use the same technique to release it from the case.
To release the UMD laser cable in yellow, there are 2 small tabs on the side of the socket. Move them both out to the right to release the cable. The lower red cable is the UMD motor cable. Lift up the tab and emove that as well.
Now, gently peel the button pad off the housing. It is stuck on using the same glue/sticky stuff.
Align the button pad using the pin on the top and center of the pad then rub it back in place of the new housing. For the R button pad, simply stick it back in place. The top (side) of the pad should sit flush with the housing. Then install the speaker by sliding the top hook in then move the slanted plastic to the left to lock in the speaker.
Now, put all the ribbon cables back in and lock it down (red and yellow circle above).
Lift up the wifi antenna connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Reconnect the wifi connector noting where the wire runs through.
Lift up the motherboard where the arrow is and slide it out towards you.
Install the motherboard by inserting the USB port though the top, then snapping it down on the lower left. Be sure to align the wifi slider with the switch on the motherboard! There's a connector from the motherboard to the headphone jack board. You'll feel a slight resistance when pushing it down.
Remove screw in red circle and lift out the Analog Stick. Then remove screw in blue and lift up from red arrow then slide it away from you to remove the headphone port. Also lift out the grounding shield (big silver piece).
Install the headphone jack by sliding it into the hole first then rest it in place. Screw it down with the black screw. Then put the Analog Stick back and screw that down as well. Put the shielding back, too.
Use the flat head and remove the white piece in red circle. Then slide the spring to the left with a small needle nose pliers or tweezers. Careful that it is spring loaded and it may snap out. MAKE A NOTE OF HOW THE SPRING IS INSTALLED! VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Close the UMD door then install the spring first, then the spring stopper. It may be difficult to install the spring so take your time. It will take you a few tries. Insert the SHORT arm into the top hole, then you will need to push the long arm into the the lower hole. Then snap the sprint stopper in.
Next, open the UMD door and hold the PSP like in the picture and use your thumb and forefingers of your left hand to VERY SLIGHTLY and GENTLY bend the housing to release the UMD door. Once the left side of the UMD door is released, you can just slide out the right side.
There's a H shaped metal with 2 arms attached to the door. Simply slide the door out from them.
Hook the right side of the UMD door first. Then using the same technique, bend the housing VERY SLIGHTLY and insert the left side in.
There are 2 rubber stoppers curcled in blue. Use your tweezers or small flat head to remove them to release the H shaped metal. Gently shift the short H arm left and right to remove it from the unit. Remove the 4 screws in red to release the UMD drive unit. Simply lift up the UMD drive unit. Don't worry if any of the rubber bushings slip out. Remove them manually from the housing and put it back on the drive unit. Be careful of the 2 cables under the UMD drive when lifting it out.
When installing the UMD drive, make sure the cables goes though the holes in the back. Make sure the rubber bushings are in place before putting the screws in.
DO NOT install the H shaped metal. Do that last!
On some housings, you will need to transfer the UMD door hooks so check and see if the new housing has them (check the accessories bags as well). If not, then you'll need to remove and transfer the hook.
To remove the hook, first remove the trim by unhooking the the part in the red circle. The trim has already been removed in the picture.
The trim snaps back into place. Note to put the wifi slider in to the trim first before installing. Be sure both the hooks on the red circle are in place.
Next, use your small flat head to remove the spring. Start preying from the right, push a bit to the left and it'll lift out.
Inside of the housing, you can see 2 small hooks (blue arrows in the picture above). Use a small flat head screwdriver to push then out and the UMD door hook should come out a bit on the other side. Then just lift it out of the housing.
To install the spring, use tweezers and insert the left side in first and then compress the spring and push the right side in.
Check the new housing also for the accessory sockets (red circle). If you don't see them, transfer them from the old housing. Use the Phillips screwdriver to prey them upwards. Then transfer them to the new housing.
Transfer the accessory sockets if necessary. Then install the UMD door hook if necessary. Just snap it into place.
Lastly, the wifi antenna. It's held on by the same sticky stuff again so use the flat head and gently prey it from the housing. Slide it out from the hole.
Now, to install, follow the guide backwards using the GREEN text.
Install the Antenna in the new housing first by sliding it through the hole.
Important note about the UMD door:
First, slide the long arms into the sides of the door first. MAKE SURE THE ARMS IS INSIDE THE GROOVES ON BOTH SIDES (GREEN CIRCLE). Once you are sure both side is in the grooves, hold the metal in the upper most position. It should not slide out. Then hook the short arms into the body of the PSP in the picture. Take note how the H bar is placed. Once installed and tested, lock it down with those 2 small rubber pieces. See the pic here.